If you have eaten at the popular Italian restaurant in NY, Locanda Verde, and liked the food, there is great news out for you: the team of Andrew Carmellini, Luke Ostrom and Josh Pickard are venturing into the mix-and-match, blending and evolving world of American cuisine. Their new restaurant, The Dutch, opened recently at Sullivan Street out in Soho. For Chef Amdrew Carmellini, it represents the accomplishment of a dream he has had for a long time. “I’ve been dreaming about doing an American restaurant for ten years,” he says.
Carmellini’s culinary career hit the limelight during his stint at the French favorite, Café Boulud, after which he explored the complex and rich world of Italian cuisine. These diverse European experiences perhaps make him perfectly qualified for the indefinite, subjective boundaries of American cuisine, which borrows heavily from a wide set of influences. It is quite clear, at any rate, that Carmellini has worn his experimental and creative hat a lot in conceiving of the dishes for The Dutch.
Some of the main course preparations at The Dutch read exquisitely. There is a lamb neck mole, chayote and red rice preparation, a smoked and roasted chicken paprikash with potato dumplings. And, if you are particularly famished, a rabbit pot pie with hard cider, spring vegetables and mustard would probably be the best choice for you. Naturally, the menu also features golden American favorites: simply prepared meats and hot fried chicken. The dessert menu is as tempting as it gets, with fresh pies every day, sticky apple tart, a forbidden rice pudding (exploding with summer fruits), and a Devil’s food cake, which consists of black pepper boiled icing, fudge sauce and White Russian ice cream.
The restaurant has two front rooms, which feature a bright and airy décor and an oyster bar with 8 stools; a snug back room, with a woody décor; and a private dining room with an eighteen seat capacity in the basement. If you like your drinks, you will find great variety here. The wine list is extensive and the cocktail menu has more than its fair share of surprises. You could hardly have tried something called the ‘Dutch Courage’, which consists of kumquat marmalade, gin and grapefruit.
The main dishes all cost between $18-29, and the restaurant is open every day between 5.30 pm – 2 am. The late night dining option is great for the busy corporate lot. All in all, it is certainly worth experiencing how Carmellini has envisioned everyone’s American favorites.
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